WASHINGTON, D.C.—The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), spanning the entire spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber to finished sewn products, issued a statement today applauding a House Textile Caucus-led letter urging the Department of Homeland Security (DHS) to strengthen customs enforcement and combat widespread fraud that is harming American textile manufacturers.

“Unfortunately, for decades, the American textile industry has suffered greatly from customs fraud and abuse by foreign competitors and organized crime,” the bipartisan group of House lawmakers state in a letter to DHS Secretary Markwayne Mullin. “Our trade policies and tariff structures are only as effective as their enforcement. As you begin your role as Secretary, we urge you to review and ensure the U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) is properly oriented and outfitted to fully enforce our customs laws.”

See the full letter here.

The letter, led by House Textile Caucus Co-Chairs Reps. David Rouzer (R-NC) and Adriano Espaillat (D-NY), was signed by 14 additional House lawmakers. They further call on DHS to “develop and institute a comprehensive textile enforcement program” that includes: revoking trade privileges, publicly listing and instituting stronger penalties for repeat offenders; increased audits, lab testing and verification of free trade agreement claims; and timely publication of enforcement statistics.

NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas, said: “I sincerely thank Congressman Espaillat and Congressman Rouzer for leading these efforts and strongly commend the bipartisan group of lawmakers for taking the lead in calling on Secretary Mullin and his agency to take urgent action to address a wide range of illegal trade practices that are severely impacting the U.S. textile and apparel industry.”

“This letter sends a powerful message that customs fraud, illegal transshipment, and tariff evasion are rampant and must be stopped. These illegal trade practices cost American jobs, undermine legitimate manufacturers, weaken our trade agreements, and deprive the U.S. Treasury of billions of dollars in revenue,” Glas said. “The industry looks forward to working with Congress, DHS, and CBP to strengthen enforcement efforts and ensure a level playing field for American textile manufacturers and workers.”

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 453,122 in 2025.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $60.9 billion in 2025.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $27 billion in 2025.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $5.50 billion in 2024, the last year for which data is available.

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CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

Vice President, Communications

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org  |  202.684.3091

WASHINGTON, D.C.—The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), spanning the entire spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber to finished sewn products, issued a statement today commending the House Armed Services Committee (HASC) for passing the Fiscal Year 2027 National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA), which contains reporting requirements aimed at strengthening the Berry Amendment’s 100 percent Made in America rules.

The House NDAA bill, which authorizes funding levels and provides authorities for the U.S. military, includes several important reporting requirements directing divisions within the Department of Defense (DOD) to strengthen compliance with the Berry Amendment and Buy American requirements for textiles and apparel. The Berry Amendment requires the DOD to purchase 100% U.S.-made textiles and clothing.

In the legislation, the committee directs the DOD to fulfill the following reporting requirements: an assessment of waiver usage under the Berry Amendment, evaluation of supplier verification and auditing practices and actions to align contracting strategies with the long-term health of the domestic defense textile industrial base; an assessment of the feasibility of narrowing the exception for Berry Amendment small purchases from $150,000 to $20,000, broadly and specifically for textiles; an examination of  flame-resistant textile production capacity and resilience; and an examination of potential non-Berry compliant Army service uniforms.

NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas:

“We applaud the HASC for passing the FY 2027 NDAA and including provisions that, if enacted, will lead to increased government purchases of more Made in America textiles and bolster domestic manufacturing and meet the mission-critical needs of our Armed Forces. We appreciate the leadership of Congressman Don Davis (D-NC) and Congressman Pat Harrigan (R-NC), co-chairs of the House Berry Amendment Caucus, who led efforts to strengthen Berry in the House this year.

“These provisions reinforce a simple but vital principle: America’s military should be equipped with American-made products whenever possible. Strong enforcement of the Berry Amendment helps ensure our armed forces have access to reliable, high-quality textile products while sustaining the domestic manufacturing base that supports military readiness and national security.

“The U.S. textile industry supplies approximately $1.8 billion in advanced textile materials and components to our military each year. These reporting requirements send an important signal that Congress recognizes the strategic value of maintaining a strong domestic textile supply chain and is committed to protecting it.

“NCTO looks forward to working with House and Senate lawmakers to ensure these provisions are included in the final FY 2027 NDAA and to advance policies that strengthen the domestic textile industrial base.”

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 453,122 in 2025.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $60.9 billion in 2025.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $27 billion in 2025.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $5.50 billion in 2024, the last year for which data is available.

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CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

Vice President, Communications

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org  |  202.684.3091

May 5, 2026

WASHINGTON, DC—The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber through finished sewn products, held its officer elections for fiscal year 2026 at its annual meeting April 14-16.

NCTO has elected Amy Bircher Bruyn, CEO and Founder of MMI Textiles as Chair, and Jay Todd, CEO and Managing Partner of Service Thread, as Vice Chair.

In addition to the appointment of a new chair and vice chair, NCTO elected chairs for each of its five councils. NCTO is comprised of five councils to ensure a broad representation of the industry supply chain. Each council has an allotted number of members who are elected to the association’s Board of Directors, in addition to the Executive Committee.

“I am pleased to announce NCTO’s 2026 officers, council chairs, and board and executive committee members,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas. “I thank Chair Amy Bircher Bruyn and Vice Chair Jay Todd for stepping into these critical roles. As we navigate a challenging environment, their leadership will be key as we advance policies to preserve preferential treatment under USMCA and CAFTA-DR, strengthen customs enforcement against import fraud, refine tariff policies with carve-outs for inputs and machinery not made in the U.S., expand the Berry Amendment and America-made procurement, and grow our Western Hemisphere co-production chain—while opposing measures that undermine a domestic supply chain supporting more than 450,000 jobs.”

Elected as NCTO Chair and Vice Chair for 2026:

• Chair – Amy Bircher Bruyn, MMI Textiles

Ms. Bircher Bruyn is CEO and Founder of MMI Textiles, a global industrial and custom textile supplier based in Brooklyn, Ohio.

• Vice Chair – Jay Todd, CEO and Managing Director of Service Thread, an industrial yarn and sewing thread manufacturer based in Laurinburg, N.C.

Elected to the NCTO Board of Directors during the various Council meetings were the following:

• Fiber Council – David Adkins of Lenzing Fibers; Geoffrey Hietpas of The LYCRA Company; and David Poston of Palmetto Synthetics
• Yarn Council – Justin Ferdinand of Kentwool; Chris Alt of American & Efird; Marc Doyon of Gildan; Charles Heilig of Parkdale; Eddie Ingle of Unifi; and Tim Manson of Meridian Specialty Yarn Group
• Fabric and Home Products Council –Allen Jacoby of Milliken & Company; Leib Oehmig of Glen Raven Inc.; Bill Rogers of Mount Vernon Mills; Brian Rosenstein of TSG Finishing; Dan Russian of Sage Automotive Interiors; and Walter Spiegel of Standard Textile
• Finished Textiles and Apparel Products Council – Gabrielle Ferrara of Ferrara (Alternate: Marisa Fumei-South of Two-One-Two New York)
• Industry Support Council – Todd Bassett of Fi-Tech; Greg Duncan of American Truetzschler; and Jim Reed of YKK Corp.

Elected by their respective Councils to serve on the Executive Committee were:

Justin Ferdinand of Kentwool; Tim Manson of Meridian Specialty Yarn Group; Bill Rogers of Mount Vernon Mills; Allen Jacoby of Milliken & Company; David Adkins of Lenzing Fibers; Gabrielle Ferrara of Ferrara; and Todd Basset of Fi-Tech.

NCTO Chair Amy Bircher Bruyn has appointed additional executives to serve on the Executive Committee: Chuck Hall, Barnet and NCTO immediate past chairman; Anderson Warlick, Parkdale Mills; Jay Self, Greenwood Mills; Marisa Fumei-South, Two One Two New York; and Jackie Ferrari, American Fashion Network.

Elected to chair the Councils:

• Fiber Council: David Adkins of Lenzing Fibers
• Yarn Council: Tim Manson of Meridian Specialty Yarn Group
• Fabric and Home Products Council: Allen Jacoby of Milliken & Company
• Finished Textiles and Apparel Products Council: Gabrielle Ferrara of Ferrara
• Industry Support Council: Todd Bassett of Fi-Tech

In addition to the chair and vice chair, NCTO also elected the following officers for the upcoming fiscal year:

• President & CEO – Kim Glas, NCTO
• Treasurer – Robin Haynes, NCTO
• Secretary – Katherine White, NCTO

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 453,122 in 2025.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $60.9 billion in 2025.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $27 billion in 2025.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $5.50 billion in 2024, the last year for which data is available.

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CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

Vice President, Communications

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org  |  202.684.3091

State of the U.S. Textile Industry Address

April 16, 2026

WASHINGTON, D.C. –National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) Chairman Chuck Hall delivered the trade association’s State of the Industry overview at NCTO’s 22nd Annual Meeting on April 16.

Hall’s speech outlined (I) the U.S. textile industry’s major challenges and policy achievements last year, (2) the strategic importance of the U.S. textile supply chain to the economy and national security, and (3) NCTO’s 2026 policy priorities for domestic textile manufacturers.

“Despite weakening in some fundamentals, I remain cautiously optimistic that the industry will once again navigate the disruptions and remain resilient this year,” Hall said. “Several policy wins and significant progress in key priority areas will generate more business opportunities for the industry and thus provide a basis and foundation for optimism in 2026.

A link to the NCTO chairman’s remarks as prepared for delivery are included here along with a link to a data infographic prepared by NCTO illustrating the current economic status of the U.S. textile industry.

NCTO’s top advocacy priories in 2026 include:

• Preserving duty-free treatment for USMCA and CAFTA-DR qualified textile and apparel goods
• Heightening advocacy aimed at the administration and Congress to secure tariff exemptions for textile manufacturing inputs and machinery not available in the United States
• Intensifying engagement to protect and expand the Berry Amendment through the National Defense Authorization Act and the House Berry Amendment Caucus
• Expanding government procurement of American-made textiles and uniforms across all federal agencies
• Robust engagement with the administration on customs enforcement to combat rampant fraud 

Hall is President and CEO of Barnet, a technical textile manufacturer headquartered in Spartanburg, South Carolina.

NCTO’s annual meeting was held April 14-16 at the Mayflower Hotel in Washington, D.C.

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 453,122 in 2025.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $60.9 billion in 2025.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $27 billion in 2025.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $5.50 billion in 2024, the last year for which data is available.

DOWNLOAD RELEASE

CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

Vice President, Communications

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org |  202.281.9305

WASHINGTON, D.C. – The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber, yarn and fabrics to finished sewn products, applauded the launch of the House Berry Amendment Caucus today.

National Council of Textile Organizations President and CEO Kim Glas

“On behalf of the U.S textile industry, NCTO sincerely thanks Rep. Pat Harrigan (R-NC) and Rep. Don Davis (D-NC) for their leadership in co-chairing the new bipartisan House Berry Amendment Caucus, aimed at strengthening national security and the U.S. defense industrial supply chain through the federal procurement of American-made mission critical clothing, textiles and gear.

“NCTO strongly supports this new caucus to promote and expand the Berry Amendment, a law requiring the Department of War (DOW) to buy textile and clothing products made with virtually 100% U.S. content and labor to support our U.S. warm industrial base. 

“The U.S. textile industry provides $1.8 billion of high-tech and functional components for vital uniforms and equipment for our armed forces each year. The Department of War estimates that over 8,000 different textile items are purchased for use by the U.S. military—and over 30,000 line items when individual sizes are considered.

“It is vital to America’s national security that the U.S. military maintain the ability to source high-quality, innovative textile materials, apparel, and personal equipment from a vibrant U.S. textile industrial base and key to this goal is defending and strengthening the Berry Amendment.

“We look forward to working with the new caucus’s leadership and our industry partners to focus congressional efforts on preserving the Berry Amendment and expanding opportunities for U.S. textile manufacturers, safeguarding domestic supply chains, and ensuring our troops continue to receive innovative, high-quality American-made products.”

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 471,046 in 2024.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $63.9 billion in 2024.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $28 billion in 2024.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $2.98 billion in 2022, the last year for which data is available.

DOWNLOAD RELEASE

CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org| P: 202.281.9305

January 29, 2026

WASHINGTON, D.C. – The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber, yarn and fabrics to finished sewn products, lauded the administration’s reciprocal trade agreement with El Salvador announced today.

National Council of Textile Organizations President and CEO Kim Glas:

“NCTO and our industry greatly appreciate the administration’s actions on qualified textile and apparel goods for El Salvador under the Dominican Republic-Central America-United States Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR). These steps will help fortify a critical export market for the U.S. textile industry and our workforce.

“We sincerely thank President Trump, U.S. Trade Representative Ambassador Jamieson Greer, and the administration for finalizing this important reciprocal trade agreement. El Salvador is part of the CAFTA-DR region that forms a vital co-production chain with the American textile supply chain. This production chain facilitated $11.3 billion in two-way trade in 2024 and supported more than 470,000 U.S. workers in the domestic textile sector alone.   

“Today’s action will reinforce the strength of the U.S. textile industry. The U.S.–Western Hemisphere supply chain is a strategic bulwark against China and other Asian competitors. We welcome the opportunity to work with the Trump administration to further fortify this vital region and strongly appreciate this important announcement.”

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 471,046 in 2024.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $63.9 billion in 2024.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $28 billion in 2024.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $2.98 billion in 2022, the last year for which data is available.

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CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org| P: 202.281.9305

November 13, 2025

WASHINGTON, D.C. – The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber, yarn and fabrics to finished sewn products, applauded the administration’s announced plans for the U.S. textile industry and qualified textile and apparel goods from Guatemala and El Salvador under the Dominican Republic-Central America-United States Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR).

National Council of Textile Organizations President and CEO Kim Glas:

“NCTO and our industry greatly appreciate the administration’s actions on qualified textile and apparel goods for Guatemala and El Salvador—steps that will help bolster the U.S. textile industry’s vital supply chain in the Western Hemisphere.  This is a critical export market for the U.S. textile industry and our workforce.

“We want to thank President Trump, U.S. Trade Representative Ambassador Jamieson Greer, and the administration for this important decision. The CAFTA-DR region forms a vital co-production chain with the American textile supply chain, facilitating $11.3 billion in two-way trade in 2024 and supporting more than 470,000 U.S. workers in the domestic textile sector alone.   

“We also sincerely thank Rep. Richard Hudson (R-NC-09), Rep. David Rouzer (R-NC-07), and many members of the House Textile Caucus for their leadership and efforts in supporting the textile and apparel co-production chain between the U.S. and CAFTA-DR countries.

“These actions will help preserve significant export markets for domestic textile producers in the Western Hemisphere and enhance the vitality of the U.S. industry. The U.S. -Western Hemisphere supply chains stand as a bulwark to China and other Asian countries. We look forward to working with the Trump administration to further strengthen this vital region and express our strongest appreciation for this important announcement.”

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 471,046 in 2024.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $63.9 billion in 2024.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $28 billion in 2024.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $2.98 billion in 2022, the last year for which data is available.

CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org| P: 202.281.9305

September 11, 2025

WASHINGTON, D.C.—The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), spanning the entire spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber to finished sewn products, issued a statement today commending the House of Representatives for passing the Fiscal Year 2026 National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA), which contains provisions that could expand military procurement of American-made textiles.

The House NDAA bill, which sets policy and funding priorities for the U.S. military, includes a key provision that would eliminate a statutory exemption under the Berry Amendment that acts as a loophole allowing the U.S. military to buy textiles abroad instead of from American textile manufacturers as long as the purchase is at or below a small purchase threshold of $150,000. The loophole has undercut the Berry Amendment, which requires the Department of Defense (DOD) to purchase 100% U.S.-made textiles and clothing.

The NDAA also incorporates language from the Better Outfitting Our Troops (BOOTS) Act, championed by NCTO and a broad coalition, which directs the Secretary of Defense to issue regulations within two years that prohibit any member of the Armed forces from wearing optional combat boots unless they are made in the United States with American-made components, with limited exceptions. The measure closes another gap that has allowed active-duty troops to be supplied with foreign-made boots, undermining U.S. footwear manufacturers.

“We commend the House for passing the FY 2026 NDAA with these critical provisions that bolster American manufacturing, strengthen economic competitiveness, and ensure our Armed Forces are equipped with the best U.S.-made uniforms and gear,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas. “Our industry produces more than 8,000 products annually for the U.S. military—including over $1.8 billion in uniforms, footwear, and personal equipment—and plays a vital role in our national defense.

“We appreciate the leadership of Congressman Don Davis (D-NC) and Congressman Pat Harrigan (R-NC), who led efforts to close the Berry Amendment loophole and co-sponsored the amendment to the NDAA,” she said.

“These provisions will expand opportunities for U.S. textile manufacturers, safeguard domestic supply chains, and ensure our troops continue to receive innovative, high-quality American-made products,” Glas noted.

“We urge the Senate to include these measures in its version of the legislation and look forward to working with both chambers to ensure the provisions are included in the final conference report.”

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 471,046 in 2024.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $63.9 billion in 2024.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $28.0 billion in 2024.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $2.98 billion in 2022, the last year for which data is available.

CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

Vice President, Communications

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org |  202.281.9305

July 30, 2025

WASHINGTON, D.C. – The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber, yarn and fabrics to finished sewn products, issued the following statement from President and CEO Kim Glas today, regarding President Donald Trump’s executive order suspending de minimis treatment for all commerce shipments globally, effective August 29.

Statement from President and CEO Kim Glas

“On behalf of the U.S. textile industry, we commend President Trump for using his executive authority to close the de minimis loophole for all global commercial shipments, effective August 29.

“For eight years, NCTO has led critical efforts to close the de minimis backdoor pipeline for cheap, subsidized, and often illegal, toxic and unethical imports—half of which are estimated to be textiles and apparel. Every day, 4 million de minimis packages flood into the U.S., undermining American manufacturing, evading inspection, and allowing forced labor-made goods from Xinjiang, China as well as illicit fentanyl to reach consumers unchecked.

“The de minimis mechanism has functioned as a black box for low-cost, subsidized, and unethical Chinese imports and undermined the competitiveness of the U.S. textile industry—a key contributor to the workforce and the U.S. economy.

“In the face of the rising flood of de minimis shipments, NCTO doubled-down on advocating for comprehensive de minimis reform and proudly joined the Coalition to Close the De Minimis Loophole, representing a wide range of American voices committed to ending the de minimis crisis, including manufacturers, business associations, labor unions, law enforcement, families of fentanyl victim groups, drug prevention organizations, consumer groups, and others.

“Today marks a significant milestone for all our efforts to repeal this harmful provision in U.S. trade law. We are grateful to President Trump for recognizing the severe impact of this loophole and validating that de minimis has caused widespread harm across businesses and communities, in the action he is taking today to repeal de minimis immediately.

“We thank the president and his administration for listening, acting, and standing with American manufacturers and workers. Today’s executive order is a game changer. It restores fairness for U.S. manufacturers, closes a major gateway for illegal and toxic goods, and lays the groundwork for reinvestment and job creation here at home.

“Coupled with the bipartisan legislation to codify de minimis repeal by July 2027, this action when implemented will slam the door shut on one of the most damaging trade loopholes in U.S. history.”

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 471,046 in 2024.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $63.9 billion in 2024.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $28.0 billion in 2024.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $2.98 billion in 2022, the last year for which data is available.

CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

Vice President, Communications

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org |  202.281.9305